EL TORO

“THE BULLS ARE MY BEST FRIENDS”

“The bulls are my best friends.”
I translated to Brett.
“You kill your friends?” she asked.
“Always,” he said in English, and laughed. “So they don’t kill me.”
― Ernest Hemingway,
 The Sun Also Rises

“Finally the bull charged, the horse leaders ran for the barrera, the picador hit too far back, and the bull got under the horse, lifted him, threw him onto his back.
Zurito watched. The monos, in their red shirts, running out to drag the picador clear. The picador, now on his feet, swearing and flopping his arms. Manuel and Hernandez standing ready with their capes. And the bull, the great, black bull, with a horse on his back, hooves dangling, the bridle caught in the horns. Black bull with a horse on his back, staggering short-legged, then arching his neck and lifting, thrusting, charging to slide the horse off, horse sliding down. Then the bull into a lunging charge at the cape Manuel spread for him.”

― Ernest Hemingway, The Short Stories

Sincelejo, Colombia. Sunday, May 4, 2025.

Hotter than I would like. Curled up on a couch in the living room of a small two bedroom house situated in a barrio that is not without it’s hazards for those who are ignorant of their surroundings.

Sun begins ascent early and journeys westwards and as it does,  with each passing minute, the temperature inside the small cinder blocks home rises manifestly.  The day begins with floor and ceiling fans whirring their presence. Alerting inhabitants to the long, hot day ahead. When midday mealtime arrives it’s time to consider engaging the small wall AC’s in each room of the home.

I’ve been on the couch for seven days nursing a sprained ankle that refuses to abate it’s relentlessly painful assault on my old body.  Unable to walk, I give thanks to my young companion who is near me, prepared to assist when required.

Here, after maybe a week, my coquettish friend ‘s aunt invited us to their summer home to relax for a few days. A large home replete with all the amenities one would expect: huge veranda, huge landscaped grounds, sumptuous home, swimming pool; pond, animals: horses, chickens, ducks, several wild Macaws. 20 persons invited to a three day sleepover.

Did I mention the swimming pool? Included in this menagerie were several teenagers. All enjoyed soccer and water polo. For several hours each evening I participated in these grueling (for me) matches.

Three days later we were were driven home and deposited on our front porch, none the worst for wear.

Rested a day, then resumed normal routine. Shopping, restaurants, walking in the neighborhood 

 Nothing untoward. Until day four. Then, ligaments, tendons, bone, began making me aware of their presence. These bastards refuse to relenguish their hold. Still on the couch for, perhaps, another week. No country for old men.

The Bulls

In 1926, Hemingway wrote his first book, The Sun Also Rises. He wrote about his experiences in Pamplona and established himself as the voice of what became known as the “Lost Generation,” a generation of people affected deeply by the events of World War I.

“I can’t stand it to think my life is going so fast and I’m not really living it,” says one character in the book.

“Nobody ever lives their life all the way up except bull-fighters,” is the answer.

Manolet Manolete (full name Manuel Laureano Rodríguez Sánchez) was a legendary Spanish bullfighter, born on July 4, 1917, in Córdoba, Spain, and died on August 29, 1947. He is widely regarded as one of the greatest matadors in the history of bullfighting. Tragic Death: On August 28, 1947, during a bullfight in Linares, he was fatally gored in the thigh by a bull named Islero, from the infamous Miura breed. He died the next day from internal bleeding.

Bullfighting in Sincelejo, Colombia, is epitomized by the corraleja, a distinctive and deeply rooted cultural event that blends tradition, community participation, and festivity.

Legal Framework of Bullfighting and Societal Context in Colombia
Summary: This essay provides an overview of the current situation and the legal framework regarding bullfighting in Colombia. The Spanish conquest of Latin America dramatically transformed cultural practices. Spanish heritage was brought with the colonization of the South American countries and with it the cultural practices of bullfighting that carries a strong element of tradition in the Hispanic culture. The evolution of laws and court decisions regarding bullfighting have been dramatically altered in recent years. Today, the position of the Colombian Constitutional Court is aimed at the abolishment of the practice. However, the Colombian Congress’ position regarding bullfighting is not as clear. Tradition has been one of the main arguments in the justification of bullfighting. However, it is important to understand that the current debate focuses on whether bullfighting should be regulated or abolished.

A corraleja is a traditional bullfighting festival unique to Colombia’s Caribbean coast, particularly in the departments of Sucre, Córdoba, and Bolívar. Unlike the formal Spanish-style bullfights, corralejas are informal events where members of the public, often without professional training, enter the ring to engage with bulls. The bulls are not killed after the fight, and the event is characterized by its participatory nature and festive atmosphere.  AI

However, it must be noted that men have been killed, horses also, collapsed stands killing several.

Finally, the bull gets to win.

Bravo.